• There’s a sunny summer’s sun
    As I awake I can tell its going to be a good day
    I check the report
    Good to fair
    That’s all I need
    I strap my board to the car roof
    I head to my spot
    The spot that I only take my friends to
    The spot that’s ours and only ours
    As I arrive I see my friends already there
    Waves crash, looks like they’re
    Double overhead
    These are my waves
    With my board in arms I’m off
    Already in over my head, I paddle out
    As I wait, I see it come
    I turn my board and ready for it
    Finally, I feel the suck pull me, I paddle hard
    The wave is big
    I’m in the middle, I stand and quickly balance out
    I slow myself down for the thrill of my life
    The tube
    I’m in there deep now
    Hands ripple the water
    I’m surrounded now, water on all sides
    Finally the wave is breaking
    I burst through that water wall
    Blinded by beauty
    I’m happy as ever
    That one wave just made my day