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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 3:08 pm
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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:47 pm
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Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:58 pm
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Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:23 pm
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:03 pm
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Poinsettias Poinsettias are traditionally Christmas time plants. Many people throw out their Poinsettias after the holidays are over. Did you know that you can keep these plants looking beautiful all year long? If you want to put in some effort, you might even get them to re-bloom. If you plan on keeping your Poinsettia after the holidays are over, you should fertilize it about once a month. However, do not fertilize during its heavy blooming period. Keep Poinsettias watered regularly, but do not let the soil stay too wet. Allow them to dry out somewhat between watering. If you let you Poinsettias get too dry, they will lose many of their leaves. See if you can strike the correct balance. Make sure to remove your Poinsettia from a plastic sleeve. If your Poinsettia came in a foil sleeve, you can leave that in place. Just make sure that it has drainage holes on the bottom. Give your Poinsettia bright indirect light for about six hours a day. Don't put them too close to cold windows. If they are going to be in a South facing window, try to filter strong summer time light with a sheer curtain. During the late winter or early spring, you will want to pinch you Poinsettia back to about 4 - 6 inches in height. Otherwise, the plant will become tall and leggy. Pinching the plant back will promote the growth of side shoots and will keep your Poinsettia bushy and full. In the early spring, you may want to repot your Poinsettia. Before you do this, however, be sure to check if it is really necessary. If there is still plenty of room for the roots to expand, don't repot it now. Choose a pot one size larger than its current pot, but no larger. Make sure that the new pot has drainage holes on the bottom and a saucer to catch any water which runs off. You may want to put your Poinsettia outside for the summer. There is nothing like the way plants will thrive if they are placed outdoors. Your Poinsettia is no exception. Make sure to wait until all threat of frost has passed. A good rule of thumb for this in the New York area is to wait until Mother's Day to put any house plants outside. When you first put your Poinsettia, or any houseplant for that matter, outside, keep it in a place where it will get indirect light, but no direct sun. If you put your Poinsettia outside and right into the direct sun, you will burn it and it may die. After a few days of acclimation, place it in a sunnier spot. Some afternoon shade would probably be a good idea. Make sure to turn the pot on a regular basis. Otherwise, you'll wind up with a Poinsettia that has grown only on one side. Also, you'll want to fertilize every couple of weeks during this time period. This is a task which should not be attempted by the faint of heart! You can keep our Poinsettia as a regular house plant and it will be lovely. It may even put out some leaves with color for the next holiday season. If you are daring, give this a shot. Poinsettias will only re-bloom when they have had short days and long nights. They require nights of at least twelve hours from the end of September through the middle of December. Once you bring your Poinsettia in from outside, place it in a room which will not get too much night time light (even light bulbs count). You will need to keep it from getting any light at all for those long twelve hour nights. Place a dark paper bag or something similar over the top of it every night. Leave it in place for at least twelve hours. You should also reduce the amount of fertilizer you are giving it during this time. For more information regarding the care and re-blooming of Poinsettias, check out www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/poinsettia/history.html. If you have lovingly covered your Poinsettia every night for a couple of months, and followed the other instruction in this article, you may be rewarded with a second (or more) season of colorful blooming. However, if you have done your diligence and your Poinsettia has not re-bloomed, know that you are not alone. This can be a difficult task. At least, you will have a lovely, full, healthy plant for years to come.
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Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:39 am
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Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:36 pm
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Irish shamrock, or white clover, is a hardy plant that grows well indoors as well as outdoors. The best way to ensure that your shamrock plant grows strong and healthy is to establish its roots early in its germination. Shamrock grows in a similar way to grass, establishing long, narrow roots that go deep into the ground. Keep these roots strong by fertilizing about once a month with an all-purpose fertilizing liquid such as MiracleGro. Do not overwater. Shamrock is virtually disease-free when growing in a contained pot indoors, but keep on the lookout for wilting. If your shamrock begins to wilt or turn yellow, you may be overwatering it. Prevent root rot by watering your plant no more than twice a week. WARNING Irish shamrock may be poisonous to your cat or dog. Do not keep Irish shamrock in your house if you have a pet. Although outdoor cats and dogs are also exposed to Irish shamrock, they are only at risk when they are in an area with large amounts of shamrock and ingest it. Because shamrock usually grows in small patches, there is not much of a health risk for outdoor pets. If you have a large container of Irish shamrock growing in your house, place it in a high or enclosed area where your pet cannot reach it. Irish shamrock is not harmful to humans if eaten. If it's ingested in large amounts by a cat or dog, the pet may experience dizziness, disorientation and stomach problems.
GROWING FROM SEED:
1. Seeds can be sown in small pots or trays using any moist, well drained soil mix. For best results, we recommend using a packaged seed starting mix. 2. The seeds should be distributed on the moist soil surface and lightly covered with additional soil. Use 1/4 teaspoon of seeds for 1 square foot of area. The pot or tray should be placed in a shaded location until the seeds germinate, which will be in about a week. Keep the soil moist and do not allow soil to dry out. After the seeds germinate and leaves appear move to a SUNNY location. 3. When two or three true clover leaves (3 Leaf) have formed, you can begin fertilizing with an all-purpose fertilizer at the recommended rate for the container. If necessary, thin-out weak plants. Plants should fill out in 8-10 weeks. 4. Transplant when roots appear at the bottom of the pot drainage holes.
TRANSPLANTING:
Depending on how you started your seeds, you'll want to transplant to a larger container when roots appear out the bottom of the pot or tray. Be careful not to damage the roots when transplanting. Use a well-draining soil mix. After transplanting continue fertilization as before.
INDOOR CARE:
Keep plants well watered (make sure container drains well) and keep in a SUNNY location. Continue fertilization as before. Try to keep tips in contact with the soil and remove any damaged leaves. Growing outdoors in full sun is preferred for best growth and flowering.
OUTDOOR CARE:
Outdoor care is the same as indoor care, except increase the fertilization to the recommended outdoor amount for container plants. Clover can also be planted in outdoor beds. Plants will go dormant during winter and re-emerge in the spring. A garden shed always comes in handy when planting outdoors.
SEED STORAGE:
If you are storing seed for future planting, seal seed package and store in a cool, dry area. For prolonged storage, you can refrigerate or freeze seeds.
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:00 pm
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How to Grow and Care for Sweet Peas Lathyrus odoratus or the sweet pea is the ‘birth flower’ of April, much like the diamond is the birthtone. The Sweet Pea has long been a favorite of gardeners because of the wonderful fragrance of the clusters of two inch, bright blue, pink, purple, red or white flowers. Sweet Peas grow and bloom best in cool, mild climates. They make great cut flowers for your home!
Growing Requirements for Sweet Pea Plants The Sweet Pea, Lathyrus odoratus, is usually considered to be a vining plant that easily climbs to a height of six to ten feet, but there are also varieties of Sweet Peas that are more bush-like and only grow to a height of 30 inches. Sweet Pea plants should be grown in rich, moist, slightly alkaline soil. They require regular watering during the summer months or they will quickly fade away. A heavy application of mulch will help keep the roots cool and moist, and allow it's cultivation in warmer regions. Remove the old blossoms promptly as they fade, to keep your Sweet Peas blooming until the first frosts of Fall. Cutting the plant back will stimulate new growth and flowering. Sweet peas are not succulent so they do need water, but as always, beware of overwatering. The blooms can easily burn so light shade is recommended.
Growing Sweet Peas from Seed Sweet Peas can be grown from seeds which germinate and begin to grow rapidly in 10-14 days. For the best results and quickest germination, soak your Sweet Pea seeds for 24 hours in room temperature water before sowing them directly into a sunny area of your garden in late March. In zones 8-10, the seeds should be planted in late fall. Plant the seeds two inches deep and three inches apart. Thin out the seedlings to six inches apart when they are three to four inches high. The vining types of Sweet Peas will need the support of a trellis, netting or fence on which to climb.
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Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 5:48 pm
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